At the start of the 19th century, the Napoleonic Wars had a profound impact on Portugal. The royal family fled across the Atlantic and established the Royal Court in Rio de Janeiro, which became the capital of the Portuguese Empire. English forces came to the Portuguese nation’s aid, and many of those who took part in the conflict wrote about their experiences in the country. Their military occupation played a significant role in the travel opportunities presented to them, but also towards the way they travelled.
Travels through Portugal and Spain, during the Peninsular War (1820), written by William Graham, a commissariat officer of the British army, depicts his journey since his depart from Dublin, through Portugal, Spain and France, from 1812 to 1814, before his return to England. His first stop in Portugal was in Lisbon, which did not impress him; in fact, he thought of it as a dirty and dislikeable city. He makes political considerations and supports the British involvement in the country. While speaking of the Portuguese Inquisition, he declares: “The different sorts of torture outstrip the inventions of the savages in America, and the scenes acted here have been as infernal as any we read of. Thank God, our power is, at present, predominant here, and I hope will continue so, while I remain here.” (pp. 10-11).
After visiting the Portuguese capital, he travelled northward through Portugal, passing through Santarém, Tomar, Miranda do Douro, Serra da Estrela, Coimbra, Porto, Guimarães, Bragança, all the way to Spain.
The map above presents the locations of most of the battles that took place in the Peninsular War (1807-1814). It shows that the majority happened between the Centre and the North of Portugal, which coincides with the itinerary of Graham. His military occupation clearly shaped and influenced not only the places he travelled to, but also his view on the country and the Portuguese population, situation and conditions. As he himself noted: “From the lands, both in Spain and Portugal, being so poorly cultivated, we were often obliged to move the troops.” (p. 86). This meant he could not roam freely as a traveller, unable to visit and stay in places at his own will. What would have happened if the battles had taken place elsewhere? Would Graham have seen the same places, taken the same conclusions about Portugal? What about all the other military men that shared similar journeys?